Panowie czy ktoś zrobił mod 3.5? jakie efekty? czy przy tym modzie wystarczy zebrać materiał na 2 mm od srodka do 0 na końcach. czy ktoś robił mod 4
This mod leaves the moveable clutch face alone and it involves machining on the roller side of the moveable clutch, to allow the rollers to travel further down their channels and the fixed plate to sit far enough into the roller side of the moveable plate to permit the advantage of this.
All of the Coop mods but for the #2 accomplish the same thing, at lowest reduction they allow the belt to drop further into the front clutch and to form a smaller pulley from it. This makes the rear clutch a larger pulley, though only by a small amount given the relative proportions of the clutches at this point.
The result is lower gearing at the low end in all cases, a desirable thing to have in the notoriously tall geared King Quad, especially the 700-750 models.
Several people who have access to machine shop tools and who are machinists or can get an adequately skilled machinist to do the work, have done one or more of these mods for themselves. As well, there are forum members who do the mods for a price including the author of this Tip, and they are readily found upon asking on the King Quad forum.
There are numerous other CVT machining mods including machining of the secondary sheaves, indexing of the secondary springs wrap preload, and shortening of the collar for increased top gearing, but these are outside the scope of this Tip.
- Fitting a clutch kit to make up for bigger tires
A 'clutch kit' doesn't change your low end gearing. The clutch kit only changes the RATE of the upshift within the CVT's existing range, by way of lighter roller weights and/or different strength or rotational preload of a different secondary spring. The lowest gearing in the range remains the lowest gearing in the range, determined by how small a pulley the front clutch forms at the mechanical limit of its excursion, and how big a pulley the rear clutch forms using the amount of belt the front clutch leaves it!
Now if the clutch kit also includes heavier strength wet clutch (centrifugal clutch) springs and those are installed, THEN it will make that wet clutch behave like a high stall speed torque converter in a hot rod automatic tranny equipped car or truck.
But making the engine rev higher (and be in a higher power output capable RPM) until the wet clutch shoes throw out and the clutch engages in order to get low end power, is a 'poor mans' or rather a poor engineers trick to get more power.
Would you ride the clutch so the engine revs higher in your pickup truck, in order to get more low end grunt?
The other problem is that those tighter wet springs delay engagement all the time, not just when you want it more low end grunt. This makes technical riding more touchy and less fun.
The only way to gear down the low end without gearing down the whole driveline is by machining techniques that include tapered front clutch plate machining, or machining to extend the rollers range of travel.
Then you get all kinds of low end reduction without sacrificing high speed gear ratio, and you can throw away those stronger wet springs.
Why would you want your clutch slipping and turning your power into heat as well as all that clutch shoe material contaminating your engine oil, when you can have that low end gearing anyway without the wet clutch slipping?
Some slip is necessary to get the quad underway from a stop, but slipping it to get low end gearing is not very efficient.
Oczywiście nie za darmo... Jak coś to proszę o kontakt na PW.